M-22: this two-lane highway offers scenic views and so much to do

By Greg Tasker

NORTHERN MICHIGAN — The Leelanau Peninsula gets a lot of attention in the fall. When the woodsy hills explode in fiery shades of red, orange and yellow, M-22 becomes a river of cars, campers and RVs. Not too long ago, the readers of USA Today voted M-22 as “the best scenic autumn” drive in the country.

But I prefer the Leelanau Peninsula in the summer, especially this time of year, late August and early September, when there is a lull between the crowds of beach-bound families and leaf-peeping couples. M-22 becomes a bit less traveled and there’s more elbow room to check out the places that make this peninsula unique.

For the unfamiliar, M-22 is a two-lane highway that hugs the shoreline of the pinky-shaped peninsula. One of the most scenic highways in Michigan, M-22 has become an iconic brand. Black-and-white M-22 stickers have become ubiquitous on vehicles, kayaks and backpacks all over. The M-22 brand “symbolizes everything we love about up north living — exploring our lakes, dunes, and forests while fostering authentic community connection,” the founders of the lifestyle brand, local adventurers and brothers Matt and Keegan Myers, explain on their company website.

That sums up much of the appeal of the Leelanau Peninsula.

Take a drive along M-22 and the rewards are many: panoramic views of Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan, postcard-pretty small towns, vineyards, orchards and small farm stands, selling seasonal fruits, vegetables and more. The route also provides easy access to hiking trails, bike paths, beaches and Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, which stretches for miles along M-22.

You can pick up M-22 on the west side of Traverse City or in the southwestern corner of Leelanau County near Empire. The 116-mile road begins outside of Manistee, about an hour south. That stretch also makes for a great fall road trip.

But let’s stick to the Leelanau Peninsula.

Even in the thick of summer crowds, Empire exudes the charms of a rural village, with a popular beach just a few blocks from downtown. Smaller than other Leelanau towns, Empire is a great apres-beach stop to grab a burger at Joe’s Friendly Tavern or gelato and chocolate treats from the Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate Shop. This sweet little shop has been around two decades and sources chocolate from Ecuador. Everything is handmade — the truffles and honey caramels are standouts.

Empire serves as the gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, an outdoor paradise spanning more than 70,000 acres along Lake Michigan. The diverse landscape of clear lakes and streams, dense woods, beaches and shoreline sand dunes draws hikers, bikers, swimmers, beachcombers and more. Stop at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center, just east of the intersection with M-72, to learn more about the popular Dune Climb and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. The latter is famous for its one-of-a-kind views of Lake Michigan and the majestic shoreline.

Farther north, Glen Arbor is home to Cherry Republic, the purveyor of all things cherry. Chill and sip cherry-inspired beer or wine at the Cherry Public House. The Mill Glen Arbor is a recently restored grist mill on the banks of the Crystal River. Built nearly 150 years ago, the Mill is now a cafe, restaurant and hotel, earning rave reviews for the restoration and the food, which is seasonal and regionally sourced. The fresh-baked pastries using house-milled grains are a hit too.

Clothing, souvenirs and other shops line M-22. New to the neighborhood is the inviting River Club Glen Arbor, a place to relax, indulge in healthy Mexican-inspired fare and local craft beer and ciders. Play the River Club’s 18-hole miniature golf course, where the holes have been designed with Northern Michigan attractions in mind. Live music is on stage daily and you can even arrive by kayak.

The Leelanau Peninsula is home to more than two dozen wineries, many of them producing award-winning wines.  A few wineries are located on M-22, including Good Harbor Vineyards, just south of Leland. Pop in the tasting room to sample Good Harbor’s award-winning Pinot Grigio and its unusual red blend, Pinot Noir-Zweigelt, a lovely wine you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

Leland bustles with tourists throughout the summer, many of them coming to check out Fishtown, a village of shanties along the Leland River that once was a commercial fishing hub. Some fishing still occurs out of Leland, but most of the shanties today are boutique shops or restaurants. The Manitou Island Transit offers a great day trip to South Manitou Island, part of the national lakeshore. Charter fishing excursions are available from the Leland Township Marina.

On the main street, the Leland Harbor House stocks outdoor and beach clothing — including the M-22 brand — and is a popular stop for locally made Moomers Ice Cream. On the opposite corner, The Leland Mercantile Co. sells everything you need for a picnic, dinner in the airbnb or a trip to nearby Van’s Beach. A block away, the sandy beach is a great place to sunbathe or look for Petoskey Stones or Leland Blue Stones.

Near the tip of the peninsula is Northport, where M-22 turns south toward Traverse City. Just north of town is Leelanau State Park and the Grand Traverse Lighthouse, an easy walk from the parking lot. In town, check out the farmers market on Fridays, held across from the marina. It’s one of the best farmers markets on the peninsula, with everything from fresh greens, sweet corn, apples, peaches, lavender, and fresh flowers this time of year. Just an FYI, it’s too late for sweet cherries.

M-22 is the main thoroughfare through Suttons Bay, where you’ll find all kinds of shops, restaurants, a movie theater and a pair of tasting rooms. Gilchrist Farm Winery and Restaurant is fairly new and its tasting room serves a “hyper-local menu,” with ingredients sourced seasonally and from local farms.  At Northern Latitudes Distillery, samples of house-made spirits are complimentary. Be sure to try the horseradish vodka.

Outside of town, Hop Lot Brewing Company exudes an Up North vibe with outdoor seating amid towering trees. Other wineries and cideries can be found along or just off M-22 as you head south.

No trip would be complete without time on the water. In Greilickville, closer to Traverse City, board a specialty cruise on The Discovery, a two-deck touring vessel with a fully enclosed main deck. Cruises include Wine Tasting Wednesdays, beginning Sept. 11, featuring flights of wine from local wineries. Or opt for the schooner Manitou, a replica of an 1800s schooner, similar to those that sailed the Great Lakes. The Manitou’s options include brunch, evening sails, wine-tasting and Moomers Ice Cream.

Yes, you’re no longer on M-22, but viewing Leelanau from Grand Traverse Bay is a great way to end your road trip and another way to appreciate the distinctive beauty of the peninsula.

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer.