DIA ‘Dining’ exhibition creates food for thought

DETROIT — Food is a universal language, which makes “The Art of Dining: Food Culture in the Islamic World” at the Detroit Institute of Arts the ideal exhibition for both seasoned art aficionados and those who haven’t been to a museum in years.

On display through Jan. 5, the exhibition consists of approximately 230 works, only about 16 of which are from the DIA’s collection. It covers a wide period of history — from ancient times until now — and a large geographic area that extends from the Middle East and Egypt to Central, South and East Asia to Europe.

“Food transcends cultures, backgrounds and borders, bringing everybody together,” DIA Director Salvador Salort-Pons said. “At the DIA, we believe in the power of art to bring everybody together.”

While the name of the exhibition might suggest that the artifacts and artworks all have a connection to Islam, that’s not the case; the title has to do with geography, not religion.

“The Art of Dining” was originally assembled by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and brings together works from public and private collections and museums from around the world. It includes plates, bowls and other serving dishes, artworks that feature food or dining scenes, books and more.

Besides serving dishes, visitors will see examples of clothing people wore to dinner — including brocaded coats and cloaks — as well as musical instruments, as music and dance were part of many formal and informal gatherings.

Adding a modern take is a 2023 multimedia installation by Iraqi-born artist Sadik Kwaish Alfraji called “A Thread of Light Between My Mother’s Fingers and Heaven,” which references the artist’s memories of family dinners and his mother’s homemade bread.

A number of the pieces on view are ornate as well as functional.

“The objects are absolutely stunning,” DIA Associate Curator of Arts of Asia and the Islamic World Katherine Kasdorf said.

Visitors are invited to use multiple senses, lifting the lids of scent boxes to experience the smell of coffee or cardamom and scanning QR codes that link to musical playlists. One portion of the exhibition invites visitors to gather around a sufra — a low table or cloth upon which a meal is served. An interactive digital display created by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art — based on the DIA’s digital French dining table — takes audiences through a six-course meal.

“Dining” creates an opportunity among visitors to “spark dialogue and learn something new,” Salort-Pons said.

The exhibition’s timing means it coincides with the holidays, traditionally a busy time for the museum as metro Detroiters bring vacationing friends and relatives to the DIA.

“We’re really hoping a lot of people will come during their holiday (breaks),” Kasdorf said.

While some of the objects were for everyday use, others would have been used for special occasions — something that may resonate with visitors who dust off their own special dishes or platters for holiday gatherings.

“That’s the big hope, that people will create those connections and it will cultivate empathy,” Kasdorf said.

She said everyone can relate to dining with family and friends.

Guests can even try to prepare some of the dishes referenced in the exhibition at home. Some of the recipes have been adapted for the modern era by chef Najmieh Batmanglij, a cookbook author and Persian cuisine expert; visitors can download them via a QR code in the exhibition.

Gift shop visitors will be able to take a taste of the exhibition home with them, with coffee and other food and beverage items from local businesses available for purchase.

Admission to “The Art of Dining” is free for residents of Wayne, Oakland and Macomb counties.

“We want everybody to come,” Salort-Pons said. “We brought it here for everybody to learn and enjoy and have a wonderful time.”

The DIA is located at 5200 Woodward Ave. For more information, call (313) 833-7900 or visit dia.org.